Control arms

Yesterday afternoon I replaced the driver side control arm and bushing. Took around 3 to 4 hours. There is not a lot of room to work in there and being the first time it took some figuring out. Of course I did have to run to the store to get a fork to knock the ball joint out so that counted for a little bit of time. Today I replaced the passenger side in half the time. I pretty much knew all the tricks now and it was a plus that the middle ball joint on the control arm has more room to work with on the nut. The driver side has A/C lines in the way. Oh, even though these are 22mm nuts, a 7/8" wrench works just fine in there.

I also replaced the bushings with urethane ones, getting the old ones out didn't take too much since I had a saws-all, made a couple of cuts in the old bushing metal ring and a few blows with a hammer and it was out. The urethane one can be a pain to get in, but if you have a old rotor laying around it is the perfect size to put the mount on there and knock the bushing in.

Now that the brakes and the controls arms are done its almost like a new car. The handling is much tighter and braking is great. Can't wait to see what it will do tomorrow.

Replaced rear brakes

Last week I got the new brakes for the rear on the 325. Today I had a chance to put them on. The driver side was easy once I got the little things figured out. I did smash a finger, but it only hurts a little right now. I replaced the rotors and the pads. The rotors were probably the originals. The passenger side rotor was a little tough, actually not really since it broke. Picture later. The thing was stuck on there really good, so I tried using a hub puller. It ended up bending the rotor until it snapped. The thing still wouldn't work so then I tried the tire method. This is where you put the tire back on the car and try to wobble it loose. Nothing. So then it was to the old heat method. Got out my trusty propane torch and heated the disc around the hub for a good 5 minutes. Although with some well placed knocks from a hammer in between the stud holes and a little later one good whack on the back of the rotor and it came off.

Got everything back together and took it for a drive. The difference in the brakes is amazing. Now I can't wait until the front rotors arrive tomorrow along with the new control arms, and urethane bushings.

325 oil service reset

As I am working through things on the 325 I came across the oil service gauge on the cluster. I changed the oil on Sunday night (it really needed it), but the gauge still showed that it was bad. There is a tool that cost about $70 that will reset it, or you can go to a shop and they'll do it for $25 or more. Or as I found on one website you can easily reset it yourself in a few minutes. Actually seconds. Tools required - a paper clip or piece of wire. I have copper wire laying around from having to run wiring in the 02 so I took a small piece, striped the ends of it and went out to the car. The procedure is this, put the ignition into position II (just before start) so that the dash lights come on. Pop the hood and go to the front of the car, open hood. Look to the passenger side of the engine bay and right behind the left strut tower there is a circle thing. Unscrew the cap and look for pin 7 and 19. They are labeled. Stick one end of the wire or metal piece in 7 and then the other end in 19. Hold it there for about 4 to 5 seconds. It took me a couple of times. Don't go too long though. Once the time as elapsed pull out the wire. Now go check the dash, you should see all green on the oil indicator.

Not done yet

I'll be picking up the 325 tonight, just in time for some really hot weather to come in. Since I'll be able to drive and work on it at the same time I'll be able to dig into somethings the 02 needs. I saw the comments from other posts and thank you for the advice. I'll be pulling the transmission off to check the main rear seal and the clutch. The transmission also needs the selector shaft seal replaced and some linkage issues fixed. I'll also replace the guibo at that time.

I took the 02 in last week to get an inspection. In Missouri you need a safety inspection every time you renew the license plates. Well, it failed. I have to replace brake pads on the front left, probably both. The brake lines were custom jobs and I forgot the brackets for them. I have to redo that and hopefully get it bled right too. The back brake lines need fixing also which mean I need to run longer metal lines so they can go through the control arm. Also the center linkage needs replacing and they recommended the tierods also get replaced. Since I'll need that done I might as well replace the idler arm bushing at the same time since I already have them and it will be apart. The good thing is there is no hurry. But this will give me experience for the next time I get it an 02. I think I need a countdown clock.

I'll be inventorying my parts too so I know what I have. Right now I plan on selling the 02 and all parts for around $3000.

Good-bye 02, hello 325

A couple of weeks ago it became apparent that we needed a new car that had A/C and seats 5. Because of my involvement with Boy Scouts (Scout Master) I from time to time need to take our Trailblazer on camp outs to tow the scout trailer. When I do this, my wife needs a car to be able to take the kids places and run to the store if she has too. She would not be able to do this in the 02 since it a manual and has a slipping clutch and no A/C. Plus the 02 can't be driven long distances. So I made the decision that the 02 needed to be replaced. So the search began and this week I found the replacement car. A 1995 BMW 325i black on black leather with sport package. It does need new brake pads all round and new rear disc and front outer ball joints. But for only $3500 it is a good deal. The best part is it is an automatic which will make it easier for my wife to drive. I pick it up tomorrow evening. For now here is a picture from Tuesday.

More troubleshooting

Well, I finally got some new plug wires and I think this should help. I found that the ones on the car had corroded  to the point that the wire wasn't making connections on all of them. I also think the fuel pump isn't doing enough at the higher RPMs, so I'm going to rehook up the electrical one in the trunk to give it just a bit more.

Gas filter

So I think I finally got it. I removed my trunk filter that I put on when I first got the car running so that anything in the tank wouldn't go into the electric fuel pump. After removing the pump I left it there. I replaced the one in the engine compartment and after getting a mouth full of gas from a hose that I tucked next to the carb and came loose flinging gas into my mouth. Anyway the filter had bits of stuff in it and was nasty. After getting the new one on there and it taking forever for it to start, I finally got it going and took it out for a quick spin. It rev'd to 4000 with no problem. Clutch still slipped of course, but it feels more powerful now.

Which reminds me, on Thursday evening I finally took it on the highway at 65 mph for a 10 minute trip. The driveshaft held and it ran okay. It should do better now.

Another thing I did the on Thursday was to replace the brake booster hose that goes from the valve thing to the manifold. The one was dirty and too short. When I got it off I also noticed a small hole. With the new one on there the brakes are much more responsive.